My Antler Art Pipe Creative Process

  1. Each antler is selectively cut with a vision of what the finished pieces might look like, from both form and function perspectives.

  2. Once cut, each cut piece is soaked in hot water and scrubbed, then hand dried. 

  3. Individual pieces are studied to determine the best way to drill it, while maximizing the visual appeal of the finished piece.  The actual drilling may involve the use of up to 15 different drill bits for a single piece.  Air pressure at 125 psi is used frequently during this step to gauge air flow and to continually eliminate dust.  For those pieces that will have metal bowls or mouthpieces added (the "Chrome and Brass" category), the antlers are drilled and tapped.  For those that will be assembled to be part of the "Traditional" category, significantly more drilling, grinding, fitting and tapping is required. 

  4. Various types of burr bits are used to further enhance air passageways.  This stage is completed with the assistance of a bench-top magnifying glass and plenty of air pressure. 

  5. Each piece is hand-sanded, typically cycling through 10 grades (from 80 grit to 600 grit), for some pieces, more than once.  This also provides a good indication of how the finished pieces will polish.  For those in "The Hollows" category, their next step involves cutting a selected piece of exotic wood and epoxying it to the base and letting it set for 48 hours before the edges are sanded to either match or augment the shape of the antler where the two come together. Pieces may come back through the sanding stage at any time if close-up work reveals areas that would benefit from more attention.

  6. Decisions are made about how a piece will be finished from an artistic perspective.  Will it be left with a natural finish? Inlayed with a semi-precious gem stone (and if so, which from hundreds to choose from will be used)? Will it be engraved (and will I use an idea from my ever-growing list or will the piece itself be the guide)? Or will it just be an experiment in color?  Regardless of what direction is taken for each, at this stage the pieces are frequently wiped down with alcohol and handled with gloves, to minimize the transfer of oils from my hands that can spot discolor the surface, to clean off pencil marks used to draw initial designs, to maximize the surface's holding ability when jeweler epoxy is used to set gemstones, etc.  Also, if a gemstone is used, once the stone fits the setting properly, the underside of the setting lip is ground out further to give the cured epoxy significantly more hold on the antler.  Again, both alcohol and compressed air are frequently used. All detail work, whether rough or finish, is done under a workbench magnifying glass. 

  7. Once the carving aspect of artwork is finished, gemstones are carefully set with jeweler's epoxy and engravings/reliefs are painted with alcohol-based inks and/or acrylic pearlescent inks. For the "Traditional" and "Chrome and Brass" pieces, they are first partially threaded together, then high strength/high temperature epoxy is applied to threads to ensure these pieces bond for a lifetime of use, with extreme care to prevent any epoxy from being exposed in air passageways.  Once this step is completed, all work is given a minimum of 48 hours to completely dry and/or cure.

  8. The next step I consider crucial to every antler art pipe, regardless of any other type of work applied to it.  With the aid of a torch and a vacuum process, super-heated air is drawn in through the bowl orifice and out the mouthpiece orifice.  I call this process "tempering" and it prepares the piece for possible use by its new owner.

  9. Once I decide that a given piece is finished mechanically and artistically, a piece number and artist signature is engraved, then painted with ink.

  10. Artwork in which inks and dyes were used is now prepared for a professional "Archival with UV Protection" sealant.  Each piece is taped off to shield all areas of the antler not intended to be sprayed, such as the lip and interior of the bowl, or the mouthpiece.  The Archival Protectant is allowed to cure/dry for a minimum of 72 hours before any additional handling.

  11. Food grade oils are liberally applied to the mouthpiece and stem interior, and allowed to soak in. Then, high pressure air is used to remove any excess and wiped. Lastly, food grade waxes are applied to the antler mouthpiece and the entire piece is hand-buffed

  12. Each piece is extensively photographed to provide a view of it as art that might never be seen otherwise.  Some are photographed in as few as a dozen shots, others for as many as several hundred, all with the goal of helping you appreciate the intrinsic beauty of each piece that you might otherwise never have stopped and taken the time to see.

 
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